Cape Tribulation, Queensland Jan 2010

I'm writing this entry in a journal style, because our accommodations kept journals where guests could write what they did during their stay for other guests to read.  This is basically very similar to what I'd written in the journal, with a little more detail...

Day 1, Jan 5 - Arrival 

We flew Qantas from Melbourne into Cairns in a huge plane with a 3 seat middle row.  It was only a 3 hour flight and they showed a movie and served lunch.  I found this to be luxurious as we fly 3 hours from San Diego to Kansas City a lot and only get a bag of pretzels and cookies!

We had cooler weather than we expected while visiting Melbourne.  When we got off the plane in Cairns, we were slapped in the face with humid, warm weather.  I am not a fan of humidity, but tried to take it all in stride during our stay in Cape Tribulation.  We rented a car and made our way up to Cape Tribulation.  It ended up taking us 3 hours to get to our accommodations, but we had to stop for supplies and a map with directions to our B&B.  I forgot to bring a printout of the directions before leaving home.  I figured someone would know where the Fruit Farm was located.  The tourist map for Daintree and Cape Trib, which we picked up from the Daintree Discovery Centre, actually has the B&B on it.  Crossing the Daintree river requires a car ferry, which is $20 round trip.

We arrived at the Cape Tribulation Exotic Fruit Farm (TA Review) at about 4pm and were greeted by Alison right away.  She took us back to our cottage, they have 2 on site, and gave us an orientation of the cabin and farm.  She invited us to join her and Digby for a drink at their home later that evening to discuss the area and decide what to do during our stay.  

After our orientation, we walked to the nearby Cassowary Cafe for lunch (meal $35).  I ordered a chicken avocado baguette with fries and Mike had the vegetarian pizza.  The food was just ok, but the restaurant is pretty cool.  It had a tree house type look and setting.  We were the only ones eating as it was an in-between meal time, but they serve food all day.  We came to realize pretty quick that you can't always eat wherever you want whenever you want in Australia, especially in smaller areas.  We always had breakfast at the farm, lunch is 12-2 and dinner is 6-8.  Other than that, you can't always find anything to eat during those in between times.  We also discovered this "fake chicken" that is used in Cape Tribulation in several restaurants.  I don't know what it is made from, but it is not good.  I made the mistake twice of ordering chicken and this was the first place I did. 

After filling our stomachs, we went back to the farm and met Alison and Digby for a drink on their porch.  Their house is completely open in the front.  There are no walls or screens.  You can walk up and see their kitchen and living room.  They wanted to build their 2 cabins that way also, but didn't think guests coming from other countries would appreciate it as much as they do.  We all drank some wine and talked about the area, how they met, how they started the farm, and what were good activities to do in Cape Trib.  We also met their neighbor that runs another B&B farm, Farm Stay, close to them.  This farm inspired their farm and they are all friends!  When I researched places to stay in the area, I thought for sure they would be competitors that weren't necessarily friends.

After getting some ideas of things to do, we went back to our cabin and enjoyed another drink on the balcony before turning in for the night.  The cabins and balconies are right at the edge of the forest and you can hear some amazing sounds at night.  There are no TVs in the cabins, but who needs them when you have the forest to entertain you.

Day 2, Jan 6 - Forest Hiking, Ice Cream Tasting, Wine Tasting, Swimming Hole, and Crocodile Tour

The first thing we heard when we woke up was rain!  Rain in the forest sounds really cool.  The cabin was left open the whole time because it was really hot.  They have a sliding door and you can shut the windows, but during the summer, you want to leave everything open.  The rain only lasted about 10 minutes.

Breakfast is served to you on the balcony of your cabin.  Digby usually serves the breakfast and starts with the exotic fruit.  About 30 minutes later, he brings a hot breakfast.  This morning our fruit was Abiu, Pineapple, Papaya, Mango, and Passion Fruit.  Our hot breakfast was banana pancakes with Black Zapote chocolate sauce, which was my favorite breakfast of our trip.  These breakfasts ended up being our favorite meal of the day and we very much looked forward to them.  

After breakfast, we went on the guided walk behind the cabins.  Alison had mapped out the walk that had stops along the way to point out the flora, plants, or particulars of the forest.  Supposedly, their real estate agent had recommended they cut out a big chunk of the forest to build their house up higher than it is located now.  They didn't want to ruin such a special place!  

After our hike that left us dripping in sweat from the thick humidity, we cleaned up and headed down to cross the Daintree River on the car ferry and on to Mossman.  We had booked a crocodile tour on the river for later in the evening, so we took advantage of exploring the other side of the river while we were down there.  On our way, we stopped at the Daintree Ice Cream Company to taste some exotic fruit ice cream.  We tasted Banana, Wattleseed, Jakfruit, and Mamey Sapote.

We then headed to Shannonvale Winery outside of Mossman.  The winery specializes in exotic fruit wine and we really didn’t know what to expect.  We pulled into the driveway and followed signs for parking and the wine tasting room.  There was no one in the covered tasting room when we arrived, but there was a bell to ring to let someone know we were there.  I think they saw us pull in, because as I rang the bell, the owners were coming out to greet us. 

He explained that his wine tasting included 13 tastes that day ($5 pp if we didn't buy any wine) and asked if we were interested.  Whoa!  When we went to Napa, we only had about 4-6 tastes at a tasting.  We sat down at one of the long tables with bar stools and he gave us a couple of glasses and got the first bottle.  He gave us a form for our tasting notes.  The first wine he poured was made with Mango and he explained it was a dry wine that was recommended with lighter foods such as prawns.  Mike really liked it, but I thought it was a little too dry. Out of 10, I gave it a 5, Mike gave it an 8.  We went through 12 more wines this way.  Half of the wines we tasted were port-like, sweeter wines.

During our tasting another couple showed up and then the wife came out and finished our tasting.  They said during the busy season all their tables are usually full. 

The owners are really serious and passionate about their exotic fruit wine and it shows during the tasting.  We tasted wine made of Mango, Lychee, Passion fruit, Jaboticaba, Ginger, Orange, Purple Mangosteen, Lime, Grapefruit and Black Sapote.  We bought Lychee, Ginger, Purple Mangosteen, Lime Cello, and Black Sapote. We knew we'd never be able to buy something like this anywhere else!

After our wine tasting, we headed to some swimming holes to cool off.  We went to Mossman Gorge and Mike jumped in and swam around.  There were lots of people swimming and lots of others watching.  There was a little rapid on the river that people were riding down and Mike made friends with a local kid to tell him how to ride it also.

We left the Gorge after an hour or so and headed back towards the river to grab some food before our crocodile tour.  We stopped at 2 places that weren’t going to be serving food until dinner an hour later, so we settled for fish and chips at a gas station in Wonga Beach.  The fish was pretty decent and very hot, but I was a little disappointed that it was hard to find food.

We ate quickly and then drove down the road to met Dan Irby for our Daintree River Tour ($50 pp).  He’s a nice guy originally from Oklahoma.  He drives a small boat with about 10-12 seats total, so you don’t get a big group.  We only had 2 other couples with us on our tour.  Dan took the time to learn all our names and asked questions throughout the tour to get to know us.  We rode up and down the river looking for crocs, birds, frogs and whatever interesting things Dan could find.  In 2 hours, we only saw a few baby crocs.  Regardless, being out on the river at dark was amazing. 

Day 3, Jan 7 – Great Barrier Reef Snorkeling and Exotic Fruit Tasting

Our fruit this morning was Mango, Papaya, Pineapple, Abiu and finally the Mangosteen…queen of the fruit and the B&B’s pride and joy.  Our breakfast was potato pancakes with green onions and tomatoes.  We also had some Jakfruit jelly for our bread.

After breakfast, we were picked up by Ocean Safari to go snorkeling on Mackay Reef ($108 pp).  We picked up a few other people and went down to their office to sign waivers before walking out to the beach to get on the catamaran.  There ended up being about 20 of us on this snorkel cruise and we were out to the reef within 25 minutes.  We snorkeled around for an hour in 2 different places and saw some great colorful coral and fish.  Someone on our tour was lucky enough to see a reef shark.  One of our guides pulled a sea cucumber off the ocean floor and showed its defense mechanism.  I wish we could have stayed longer or gone again.  We were back to the beach by 12:30.     

We had lunch at PK’s Jungle Village (meal $28).  This place caters to backpackers and younger people.  I really liked the atmosphere.  If there was any place in Cape Trib with nightlife, it was this place.  I had a vege burger and Mike had a prawn roll, both were pretty decent.  We both had a beer also.

We went back to the farm and did the Fruit Tasting ($20 pp).  As if we weren’t getting enough with our breakfasts, we were hoping to sample new stuff.  Trish ran the discussion and she did a great job.  I discovered that I really enjoy Mamey Sapote; it tastes like sweet potato to me.  We tasted Breadfruit, Jakfruit, Mamey Sapote, Salak, Abiu, Black Sapote, Davidson Plum, Carambola, and Jaboticaba.

For dinner, we ate at Whet (meal $100).  This is the nicest place to eat in Cape Trib.  The seating is outside on a covered patio with torches lit around the patio.  The service was very friendly.  We ordered a pork and scallop appetizer that was absolutely yummy.  The portion was really small, but very good.  Mike had the trout and I ordered the tuna.  My tuna was a little overcooked for my liking, but the trout was very good.  They ended up running out of that right after our order.  For dessert, we had chocolate mangosteen ice cream with mango syrup.  Yum!  Our meal was a little bit of a splurge for the area, but worth it.  We didn’t have any drinks with our meal.

Day 4, Jan 8 – Sea Kayaking and Hiking

Our fruit this morning for breakfast was Star Fruit (Carambola) Sugar Bananas, Papaya, Pineapple, Passion Fruit, and Mangosteen.  Our hot breakfast was a cheese and herb omelet.  The eggs come from the hens that run around on the farm.

After breakfast, we walked to the local campground and rented a kayak to take out in the ocean.  We had it for 2 hours ($40) and paddled from the camp up a ribbon reef around the Cape Trib point to the bay on the other side.  We were looking for the dugong (similar to a manatee) that had been spotted in the area.  We didn’t have any luck finding it. 

After our kayaking adventure, we drove to the Cape Trib Beach House for lunch (meal $35) on our way to go hiking.  We really liked this place.  I had some pasta and a salad and Mike ordered a chicken sandwich.  We also each had a beer.  The pasta dish was a huge serving, but somehow I managed to finish it.  I was craving some pasta! 

With full bellies, we drove on to Emmagen Creek to find the trail back to a swimming hole.  At first we went the wrong way and Mike jumped in a swimming hole that wasn’t the one we were looking for.  We joked around that there might have been crocs in that swimming hole.  We referred to our map and discovered we had to walk a little down the road to get to the trail.  Finally on the right trail, we headed back to a nice secluded swimming hole.  There was another couple from San Francisco that were on their honeymoon, but other than that, no one else was there or came during our time there.  We swam around and relaxed a little in the shaded place. 

For dinner this evening we decided to walk to PK’s Jungle Village (meal $45) to experience the place at night.  Being in Cape Trib, you are pretty secluded and don’t always see a lot of people.  I was looking for some lively atmosphere, if just for a couple of hours.  It was pretty busy and there was some music playing.  We ordered the BBQ chicken pizza, but picked off all the chicken.  We forgot that the chicken isn’t always good as I’d mentioned earlier in this post.  We had a couple of beers each,

Day 5, Jan 9 – Sunrise, Hiking, Swimming Holes, and a BBQ!

We got up before breakfast and 6 am to catch the sunrise on the beach.  On the way to the beach, we saw a wild pig in the B&B’s orchard.  It was a little cloudy, so it wasn’t really spectacular.  It was nice however to be on the beach first thing in the morning.  It was quiet and the sand was cool!  The sand gets really hot during the day.  We walked along the beach a little and saw a reef shark swimming along the shallow waters. 

Back to the cottage for breakfast, our fruit was Pineapple, Abiu, Mango, Dragon Fruit and one of my favorites…Mamey Sapote.  For our hot breakfast, we enjoyed French toast with bacon and maple syrup.

After breakfast, we drove to find the trailhead to Blockade Creek.  This used to be a popular hike that locals would send tourists on, but the popularity of it had died out for some reason.  Alison & Digby said that none of their guests had gone on it in a while.  I think Alison had told us there was a trail, but we did what everyone else usually does and hiked up the river bed.  It was a little difficult climbing over the big boulders and some were wet.  I slipped and got one of my shoes all wet.  I wasn’t having the greatest time at first, but once we made it, it was pretty cool to see the little waterfall and swimming hole underneath it.  We shared the swimming hole with a Black Bittern.  We believe he was trying to fish, but he stayed there the whole hour or so we were there and barely moved.

The hike back down was a lot easier.  We drove back to Mason’s Café for lunch (meal $25).  I had a burger and it came with lots of veges on it (cucumber, beets, lettuce and carrots).  Mike had the fish and chips, the fish was little battered and very flavorable.  The food was very good, especially the fish.  We shared a coke.  After eating, we checked out their swimming hole.  It’s located in a river in tree shading.  It’s in a nice cool spot and it’s a big swimming area.  You could actually lie out and swim some laps.  There were several people that ended up back here while we were there. 

We decided that we wanted to go look for a Cassowary after our swim.  We had only seen one that we briefly saw run across the road as soon as we crossed the river our very first day.  Digby told us they have been seen at the Jindalba walk next to the Discover Center.  We drove down and walked around a little, but didn’t have any luck.  One our drive back to the B&B, we stopped at a Daintree Coffee Co. for a cup of coffee.  It was a nice little shop that had great coffee.  We noticed some rain clouds and the guy in the coffee shop said rain was coming! 

We made it back to the B&B barely and it started to rain.  It was raining pretty heavy to us, but the locals considered it a sprinkle!  The sound of the forest changed, the bugs started chirping really loud.  They were very excited for the rain! 

We had been invited by Alison & Digby to a BBQ they were hosting to celebrate the opening of their packing barn.  The rain didn’t keep everyone from attending the BBQ.  A lot of people were walking around barefoot under umbrellas.  We enjoyed a mango bellini made by Digby and lots of champagne poured by Alison.  It was a lot of fun and we met some fun people.  We had read in a book what to do if you get invited to a BBQ in Australia and thought that would never happen.  We actually were invited to a BBQ in Australia!

It rained and rained all night!  It was awesome listening to it rain in the forest. 

Day 6, Jan 10 – Departure

It was still raining when we woke up and we got up and sat on the balcony with our morning tea and coffee listening to it.  Our last morning of fruit was Dragon Fruit, Abiu, Mangosteen, Sugar Bananas, and Mangos.  Our hot breakfast was poached egg Benedict with spinach. 

It was so hard to leave, because we loved our stay at the Cape Trib B&B!  Being in Cape Trib was the best part of our trip.  It’s nice to travel to new places, but it’s even more fun and memorable when you go to places that are off the normal tourist path.  Cape Trib is definitely that place.  To fully enjoy your time, you have to be ok with the lack of amenities, the bugs, the humidity in the summer, and the rain.

Continue Reading About Our Trip:

3 Nights in Melbourne

6 Nights in Sydney